Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Review: JG G36K

It's time to talk about one of my favorite weapon platforms, the G36. Designed by Heckler & Koch in the 1990's, the real steel version was adopted by the German military in 1997 to replace the bulkier G3. The G36 shoots a 5.56 caliber round and has the capability to hold 30 rounds in it's box magazine. It's futuristic design makes it stand out from other popular battle rifles such as the M4 and AK-47.

The Airsoft version is available from multiple manufacturers including KWA, SRC, H&K, Classic Army, Jing Gong and more. Personally, I lean towards the JG version due to it's lower cost and sturdy design - and since the JG version is what I own, that's what I will be discussing. 

DISCLAIMER: Unlike most reviews, I am not reviewing a brand new weapon. I have owned a G36 for several years, so you are getting the "veteran" review. As such, I won't be going over things such as "first impressions" or how the box looks etc. After all, lasting impressions and long term performance are much more important topics to discuss.

My G36's:


The first is the "sniper" version of the G36K (a recent acquisition from ebay), while the second is the basic original G36K which I have owned for several years. (The custom PVC flash-hider and front side rails are my addition). There is also a shorter version, the G36C, which is a smaller platform geared towards CQB use.

STATISTICS:

FPS:
Most retailers advertise the weapon somewhere from 360-400 FPS. I'm not sure what mine was shooting new, as I did not have a chrono at the time, but I would estimate 370-380. Once the spring settles in it will most likely be around the 350-360 FPS mark, which is still plenty decent for woodland use. 

Range:
I would classify the G36 as a medium range weapon. 100 feet is an easy distance, 150 feet probably being about the maximum effective range. Anything over that and you are just lobbing.

Magazine Capacity:
470 rounds.

Externals:
With the exception of the sights, gearbox, trigger, selector switch, pins, lower rail and dust cover, everything is polymer, but very sturdy. The polymer build stays true to the real steel version, which is also constructed mainly of synthetic material. Even after several years, the gun still feels very solid and the only somewhat serious damage has been on vulnerable areas where a bb impacted just right:



Gearbox:

The G36 features the sturdy and superior design of the version 3 gearbox. JG is especially good at making tough internals that can handle heavier loads. I know several people who had to have their stock piston replaced, but mine still has the original piston and seems to be holding up fine. Granted, I have carefully tuned my gearbox, but it's still running stock parts except for the spring, spring guide and bushings, all of which were changed out of preference, not necessity. I did have to replace the selector plate, but only because I broke it being careless. 

BASIC FEATURES:

Iron Sights

The iron sights are pretty basic, and work something like this:

The rear sight has two posts, presumably one for close range and one for longer range. It can be adjusted for windage and elevation by turning the hex head adjustment screws. I accidentally broke the thinner post after the gun took a tumble (onto concrete if I recall correctly), but I never really noticed a difference between the two anyways.


 Windage Adjustment (And yes, I name my guns...)
Elevation Adjustment

Battery Compartment:

The battery compartment is very easy to get to, just pull out the pin and slide the hand-guard off the front of the weapon.


(The gun comes with a metal pin to hold the front hand-guard on, but over time it gets loose and likes to fall out, which is what happened here. I just use a wooden dowel now, but replacement pins are available.)


The battery space is not that large, but I can fit a mini-type 1600 mAh 9.6v battery in, though just barely. Many people complain about it and say it's a pain to put the battery in, but if you know what you're doing it really isn't complicated. 
As you can see, on my gun I have redone the wiring and attached a deans connector to increase the electrical efficiency.


Hop-Up Adjustment:

The hop-up is a typical "drum" type and is accessed by pulling back on the ambidextrous cocking handle.


Sling Mounts:

There are three sling mount options: one on either side at the bottom front of the forward hand-guard, one on the receiver above and to the right of the selector switch, and one one the stock.






Folding Stock:

The G36's handy folding stock allows for greater maneuverability in tight situations. Simply press the button and fold. 



The stock will latch onto a small post sticking out of the receiver. To unfold, apply gentle upward force to the stock and fold it back out.

Stack-able Magazines:

G36 mags are designed to be clipped together, like so.

   
This feature allows you to carry a ton of ammo without having to buy expensive drum magazines



Additional Available Features


Conversion Magwell:
This special magwell allows the G36 to take standard M4 magazines*


*Unfortunately, newer versions of the G36 have a redesigned hop-up unit which is not compatible with the conversion magwell. (Below is a photo of the compatible original hop-up design)



Side Rails:
The G36K comes stock with a large top rail and a sufficient bottom rail. However, if you find yourself needing more room for a flashlight, laser, etc, additional side rails are available for $10-$20.



PROBLEMS:
The list is very short here. 
1. The pins that hold the front hand guard and stock in place have a tendency to loosen and fall out over time.
2. The prongs on the plastic flash-hider that comes with the gun can be deformed, causing the bb to hit them and fly off at weird angles. This can be fixed by removing the flash-hider or cutting the prongs shorter.
3. Battery space is somewhat limited.


SUMMARY:

Overall the JG G36K is a fantastic weapons platform. It's sturdy build and reliability makes it a great choice, especially for new players, or those who tend to be hard on equipment. In addition, upgrade/replacement parts are easy to find. I would definitely recommend this gun (and in fact I have many times) to both new and experienced players.



All content Copyright 2014 by Andrew Derr. All rights reserved.

6 comments:

  1. Can you fit a 9.6v brick type in it?

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    1. Yes, but it will be a very tight fit. If you look closely at the second picture under the battery compartment part of the review, you will see that there is a small "L" shaped tab that sticks down where the battery goes. This serves no other function than to help hold the battery in place and can be cut off to allow a bit more room. Small type "nun chuck" or "butterfly" 9.6v batteries tend to be a bit easier to install.

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  2. Thank you for your review brotha. I have someone willing to sell me of each for 50 bux. Nothing wrong with it. Can't pass it up.

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  3. How did you fit that stubby grip onto the "sniper" G36?

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    Replies
    1. Hi Sebastian! That is a Magpul MOE MVG fore grip. I installed it through one of the slots in the bottom of the G36 handguard. I had to do some filing on both ends of the slot for the nubs on the fore grip to fit in (the MVG does not mount to a rail like regular fore grips). There is a piece that mounts over the nubs of the fore grip and a screw that tightens it to the fore grip (with the hand guard in between). It is not the most robust setup though and does flex a bit when torque is applied. A better method would be to replace the plastic piece that fits over the grip with a longer (preferably metal) piece, drill a hole through and use a nut of the appropriate thread for the grip screw to tighten into. Or just mount a rail and use a regular fore grip :) I don't know if this makes any sense - hard to explain verbally. Hopefully you can decipher my explanation. If not, maybe I can post some pictures.

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