"What gun should I get?" is a question I hear all the time. With literally thousands of choices on the Airsoft market, such a decision can be quite challenging and overwhelming. My task is to make your decision a bit easier.
First, let's examine the main Types of Airsoft Weapons.
Spring: This term refers to guns that requires the user to manually compress the spring via a lever or bolt before each shot. The upside to spring guns is that you don't have to bother with batteries or gas; The downside is their low FPS (usually 330 or less) and the fact you can only shoot as fast as you can pull the lever back and squeeze the trigger. Spring guns are fine for backyard battles, but that's about it.
Gas: These guns are powered by a compressed gas such as propane, green gas or Co2. Gas guns can range from pistols to sniper rifles. One of the nice things about gas guns is they sound awesome, and you don't have to fool with a battery. However, their performance and functionality are affected by weather, and it can be a pain to carry extra gas around with you. Luckily, there are options such as the Airsoft Innovations Refillable Gas Can, which allows propane and green gas users to carry an extra gas supply around in a container small enough to fit in a standard grenade pouch. Gas guns are also higher maintenance weapons that must be cared for regularly if you want them to last. Gas guns are acceptable for most playing situations.
Automatic Electric Guns (AEG's): These guns use a battery powered motor to compress the spring and fire the weapon. AEG's can be broken down into three categories:
- LPEG
- MPEG
- High end
LPEG stands for Low Priced Electric Gun. These are the type of guns you'll find at Walmart, Dick's Sporting Goods and other hobby/sporting good stores. In addition to their cheap plastic externals, these guns have plastic internals which are not nearly as durable as the metal internals found in mid to high quality guns. LPEG's also have a low FPS and little to none upgrading capability. These guns are fine for backyard wars or if you are only playing against spring guns or other LPEGS. Try to go against anyone else and you will die. Quickly.
MPEG stands for Mid Priced Electric Guns. Most of these guns have metal gearboxes and are cloned off of Tokyo Marui's designs. Companies such as JG and CYMA have really come along in the MPEG category, providing durable, quality weapons at a low cost. MPEG's will let you compete in all playing situations.
High-end guns tend to use higher grade materials internally and externally and have more highly tuned internals for a better stock performance. Although there are some perks to high-end guns, for the most part you are just paying for a name brand and sometimes better externals. These weapons work in all playing situations.
There are several important factors which you should consider before buying a gun, and they are as follows:
Playing Style:
Are you an aggressive player who likes to move a lot and be in the midst of the action, or do you prefer to stay on the outskirts of the action? For someone who likes to be highly mobile, a small to mid-sized weapon (and possibly one with a folding or collapsing stock) will allow for greater maneuverability. A larger weapon with a longer barrel and higher FPS will provide greater range and accuracy for the player who prefers to engage from a distance.
Environment:
This category can be broken down into three main subcategories.
- Close Quarter Battle/Close Quarter Combat (CQB/CQC)
- Woodland
- Urban
CQB/CQC is almost always indoors, so space is limited and close engagements are common. If you play, or want to play CQB, you'll want to stick with a lower powered, compact weapon. Most CQB sites have a maximum FPS limit of 330-350 or less.
Woodland battles take place in forested areas, where engagement distances are usually fairly great. For this type of environment you'll want something with a good bit of FPS (350 or higher) and a good rate of fire.
Urban battles tend to be a mix of woodland and CQB scenarios. A mid sized AEG or a combination of an AEG and a pistol or other compact sidearm is ideal for this type of play.
The Bottom Line...
...is this. If you are planning on doing any serious Airsoft, wait until you have at least $150 to put towards a decent gun. If you need gear too, plan on spending $200-$250. That may mean waiting a bit longer, but trust me, it's worth it.
Got your gun but trying to decide what gear you need? Check out my article "Functionality or Overkill?".
Tuesday, July 30, 2013
Saturday, July 27, 2013
Functionality vs. Overkill
When it comes to Airsoft, there are literally hundreds of gear and accessory options readily available. With all the choices, choosing the right gear can be overwhelming, and it is rather easy to go overboard. In this article we will explore some of the different playing styles and gear, which will hopefully give you some ideas to get you started on your personalized load-out.
Just imagine trying to run through any type of foliage with all this... Yeah, it will not end well.
When trying to choose new gear for myself, there are three main things I must consider:
1. Role: What is my playing style?
2. Environment: Where do I typically play Airsoft?
3. Practicality: Will I really use it, or do I just want it for the "cool" factor?
Below I will explain each aspect in detail.
ROLE:
Every Airsoft player has a unique playing style. Choosing the right gear will help to enhance the effectiveness of your chosen role. There are three main types of Airsoft players; Aggressive, Passive, and Somewhere-In-Between.
Aggressive players like to be at the forefront of the action and are always on the move. Because mobility and speed are important in this role, small, light weapons and minimal gear will maximize efficiency. Due to the intensity of this playing style, weapons and gear tend to be rather abused, so choosing durable gear is very important as well.
Passive players are often referred to as "campers" - they prefer to sit tight and wait for the enemy to come to them. Engagement distances can vary from extremely close (depending on the patience of the camper) to quite far, so players should be equipped for both short, intense shootouts, and longer, drawn out engagements.
Those players who are Somewhere-In-Between do not consistently display either of the above traits, and just tend to do whatever they feel like at the moment. A versatile load-out is best suited for this type of player.
ENVIRONMENT:
There are three main types of environments in which the Airsoft player will find themselves; Woodland, Close Quarter Combat/Battle (CQC/CQB) and Urban.
Woodland typically consist of a wooded area, although there can be open fields and bodies of water as well. Greenery can range from mature trees to dense undergrowth, or a mix of the two. Engagements usually happen at medium (75-100 feet) to far (150+ feet) distances.
CQB/CQB generally takes place indoors, where opponents frequently face off at 15-75 feet. Because of this, most CQB arenas have a 330-350 FPS limit on all weapons. Mobility and speed are extremely important factors in this type of environments
Urban warfare tends to be a combination of of both the latter, therefore a diversity of weapons and gear is highly recommended.
PRACTICALITY
When choosing your gear, you must be careful to choose those items which you are definitely going to use. For example, if you only or mostly play during the daylight, you don't need to invest in a laser or flashlight. Also, you don't need that 9x30 magnification scope on your AEG; you can see way further that you'll ever be able to shoot. Those things may look cool tacked to your gun, but your money could have been better spent buy purchasing extra mags, batteries, or any number of things that you often find yourself in need of.
The whole point of this article is to help you choose between what is practical and what is not - Functionality versus overkill. The military has a great grasp on this concept. They know that to much gear is going to slow them down and make them easy targets. They also know that not being equipped with the right equipment could be deadly. Thankfully in Airsoft the stakes are not so high, but it still pays to be prepared.
MAIN GEAR CATEGORIES:
Not to sound like a broken record, but again I find that this can be consolidated into three main categories: Protective, Collective and Effective (see what I did there?)
Protective gear will include gear such as:
-Gloves: Getting shot in the hand can hurt - a lot. If you play woodland this may not be such an issue for you, but for CQB players, gloves will definitely save you from large amounts of pain.
-Goggles/Safety glasses: Definitely a must. Vision is a very nice thing to have, so you probably don't want to lose yours. Personally I prefer the mesh goggles so I never have to worry about fogging.
-Helmets: Head shots can hurt, although usually just a hat is sufficient protection.
-Masks: These can be one-piece units which cover the entire face (or the whole head), or just a "lower face" mask which protects your mouth and cheeks and is used in conjunction with goggles or safety glasses.
-Pads: Knee pads are very common among Airsofters because often you will find yourself falling or sliding on your knees - which doesn't feel to good if you don't have pads and land on rocks or thorns. Some players also opt for elbow pads for added protection to the arms.
-Plate carriers: These are essentially hard vests which protect your back and chest. Usually shots in these areas are not that painful, but again, it's up to you.
Collective gear is what you use to store stuff and can range from, well, read for yourself:
-Back-Pack: Self explanatory. Bulky, but it can hold a lot of gear.
-Drop leg Magazine Pouch: If you don't like stuff packed around your chest, you can tack it on your leg instead! The only problem is that available space is limited.
-Dump Pouches: A great little device where you can stuff any item that needs a home. Most people use them as a place to dump expired magazines, hence the name. I would not advise using it as a mobile waste device...
First off, you definitely don't need your gun looking like this...
Just imagine trying to run through any type of foliage with all this... Yeah, it will not end well.
When trying to choose new gear for myself, there are three main things I must consider:
1. Role: What is my playing style?
2. Environment: Where do I typically play Airsoft?
3. Practicality: Will I really use it, or do I just want it for the "cool" factor?
Below I will explain each aspect in detail.
ROLE:
Every Airsoft player has a unique playing style. Choosing the right gear will help to enhance the effectiveness of your chosen role. There are three main types of Airsoft players; Aggressive, Passive, and Somewhere-In-Between.
Aggressive players like to be at the forefront of the action and are always on the move. Because mobility and speed are important in this role, small, light weapons and minimal gear will maximize efficiency. Due to the intensity of this playing style, weapons and gear tend to be rather abused, so choosing durable gear is very important as well.
Passive players are often referred to as "campers" - they prefer to sit tight and wait for the enemy to come to them. Engagement distances can vary from extremely close (depending on the patience of the camper) to quite far, so players should be equipped for both short, intense shootouts, and longer, drawn out engagements.
Those players who are Somewhere-In-Between do not consistently display either of the above traits, and just tend to do whatever they feel like at the moment. A versatile load-out is best suited for this type of player.
ENVIRONMENT:
There are three main types of environments in which the Airsoft player will find themselves; Woodland, Close Quarter Combat/Battle (CQC/CQB) and Urban.
Woodland typically consist of a wooded area, although there can be open fields and bodies of water as well. Greenery can range from mature trees to dense undergrowth, or a mix of the two. Engagements usually happen at medium (75-100 feet) to far (150+ feet) distances.
CQB/CQB generally takes place indoors, where opponents frequently face off at 15-75 feet. Because of this, most CQB arenas have a 330-350 FPS limit on all weapons. Mobility and speed are extremely important factors in this type of environments
Urban warfare tends to be a combination of of both the latter, therefore a diversity of weapons and gear is highly recommended.
PRACTICALITY
When choosing your gear, you must be careful to choose those items which you are definitely going to use. For example, if you only or mostly play during the daylight, you don't need to invest in a laser or flashlight. Also, you don't need that 9x30 magnification scope on your AEG; you can see way further that you'll ever be able to shoot. Those things may look cool tacked to your gun, but your money could have been better spent buy purchasing extra mags, batteries, or any number of things that you often find yourself in need of.
The whole point of this article is to help you choose between what is practical and what is not - Functionality versus overkill. The military has a great grasp on this concept. They know that to much gear is going to slow them down and make them easy targets. They also know that not being equipped with the right equipment could be deadly. Thankfully in Airsoft the stakes are not so high, but it still pays to be prepared.
MAIN GEAR CATEGORIES:
Not to sound like a broken record, but again I find that this can be consolidated into three main categories: Protective, Collective and Effective (see what I did there?)
Protective gear will include gear such as:
-Gloves: Getting shot in the hand can hurt - a lot. If you play woodland this may not be such an issue for you, but for CQB players, gloves will definitely save you from large amounts of pain.
-Goggles/Safety glasses: Definitely a must. Vision is a very nice thing to have, so you probably don't want to lose yours. Personally I prefer the mesh goggles so I never have to worry about fogging.
-Helmets: Head shots can hurt, although usually just a hat is sufficient protection.
-Masks: These can be one-piece units which cover the entire face (or the whole head), or just a "lower face" mask which protects your mouth and cheeks and is used in conjunction with goggles or safety glasses.
-Pads: Knee pads are very common among Airsofters because often you will find yourself falling or sliding on your knees - which doesn't feel to good if you don't have pads and land on rocks or thorns. Some players also opt for elbow pads for added protection to the arms.
-Plate carriers: These are essentially hard vests which protect your back and chest. Usually shots in these areas are not that painful, but again, it's up to you.
Collective gear is what you use to store stuff and can range from, well, read for yourself:
-Back-Pack: Self explanatory. Bulky, but it can hold a lot of gear.
-Drop leg Magazine Pouch: If you don't like stuff packed around your chest, you can tack it on your leg instead! The only problem is that available space is limited.
-Dump Pouches: A great little device where you can stuff any item that needs a home. Most people use them as a place to dump expired magazines, hence the name. I would not advise using it as a mobile waste device...
-Holsters: Having a back-up weapon is nice, but having an accessible place to store one makes it even better. Most holsters also have an pouch to store an extra magazine or speed loader.
-Vests: From S.W.A.T styles to MOLLE, a vest is a great place to store extra ammo, magazines, batteries etc.
Effective gear is what enables you or your weapon to be more effective. This includes items such as:
-Batteries: There is nothing worse than the sound of a dying battery in the middle of battle. Having and extra battery or two on hand will help you keep on playing longer. Getting a 9.6v battery will increase your rate of fire instantly without any of the risks of higher voltage batteries.
- BBs: It is amazing how many people underrate this vital piece of equipment. Using quality bbs makes all the difference in range and accuracy. BB weight is also very important - using 0.30g bbs in a stock gun is not going to be effective, and .12g are going to fly all over the place. .20g are good for the average player, or .23g-.25g if you want more accuracy.
Bipods: For most people, this is one of those "overkill" items, but for snipers and designated marksmen who need every bit of accuracy they can get, this is a vital piece of gear. Also, gunners with heavy weapons will find it a welcome alternative to firing from the hip or trying to shoulder a bulky weapon.
Claymore Mines: For the most part impractical, but if you know how to use it can work. As with most things, the greater the quantity, the greater the likelihood of success.
Flashlights: If you play in the dark a lot, a flashlight can be a helpful friend to penetrate the darkness and reveal the enemy. Strobe lights (the ones that flash) are good for disorienting your enemy and are even used in lit CQB situations.
Flip-Up Iron Sights: Most guns come with stationary front and rear iron sights, which usually work fine. Really the only advantages to flip-up sights is that you can place them to your preference and they can fold out of the way so you can use your reflex sight or other optic
-Fore-grips: Some people love 'em, some people don't - but the truth is they do make whipping your weapon around a bit easier. You can even get one that splits in two to double as a bipod!
Grenades: There are several types; Some actually spray bbs everywhere when they go off and some simply make a very loud pop. Smoke grenades can be helpful when you need to make yourself invisible to the enemy. When used right, any of these can be effective tools.
Grenade Launchers: Nope, they don't actually launch a grenade (bummer, right?). Pretty much it's a giant shotgun that you can mount on any gun as long as you have a rail large enough to accommodate it. Very good for clearing small rooms or bunker rushing (if you can get close enough to use it, that is).
Hydration Packs: Also called "camel packs" these are large bladders which you can fill with water and sling on your back. A hose runs from the pack and clips onto your vest so you can have ready access to a freshening gulp. Hydration packs are a great way to carry large quantities of water without the bulkiness of water bottles or canteens.
Lasers: Another low-light accessory, it functions like a reflex sight by allowing you to quickly acquire your target. You may consider one if you play a lot of night or CQB games.
-Magazines: They are like potato chips - one is just not enough! High capacity, mid capacity, low capacity - get whatever suits you. Many people like high caps because you have 200+ rounds ready to fire. Others, however, prefer mid or low caps for the realism of swapping out mags, or to avoid the tell-tale rattle of high caps.
- Multi-Tool: You never know what tool you might find yourself in dire need of. A multi-tool helps to cover all the bases.
PEQ Boxes: Great for storing an extra battery, or to use if you or your gun don't have room for a battery anywhere else.
Rails: Many guns come with rails pre-installed, but there are also many options for adding onto what you already have. Rails are a necessity if you need to mount accessories to your weapon.
-Red/Green Dot Reflex Sights: Need speedy target acquisition and your iron sights just aren't cutting it? Look no further! Reflex sights come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, and any decent one will be fully adjustable. Once dialed in, just stick the dot on your target and fire.
Slings: Be it a 1,2 or 3 point sling, this tool makes it easy to transition to a secondary weapon or just keep your main weapon on your back and out of the way. It can also be used to enhance a rifles stability when trying to make accurate shots.
-Tape: Duct or electrical tape is great for a host of things. When you want it you find you can't make do without it - so always have some on you.
-Two-Way Radios: While these are not specifically "Airsoft" accessories, the importance of communication cannot be overstated. Winning or losing can hinge on a simple piece of information delivered at the right moment.
-Whistle: A great tool to signal game starts and stops. Also comes in handy of you need help, although hopefully you'll never have to use it for that.
So, let's recap the main points.
Role - what's your playing style?
Environment - where do you play mostly?
Practicality - will you use it often?
Protective Gear - accessories that protect your body from injury or pain
Collective Gear - accessories that provide a place to store other gear
Effective Gear - accessories that enhance you or your weapons' effectiveness
Next time you are thinking of buying that new piece of gear, just take a moment to review this information and you will be well on your way to making an educated decision.
Play hard, play well. Play Airsoft!
.
-Batteries: There is nothing worse than the sound of a dying battery in the middle of battle. Having and extra battery or two on hand will help you keep on playing longer. Getting a 9.6v battery will increase your rate of fire instantly without any of the risks of higher voltage batteries.
- BBs: It is amazing how many people underrate this vital piece of equipment. Using quality bbs makes all the difference in range and accuracy. BB weight is also very important - using 0.30g bbs in a stock gun is not going to be effective, and .12g are going to fly all over the place. .20g are good for the average player, or .23g-.25g if you want more accuracy.
Bipods: For most people, this is one of those "overkill" items, but for snipers and designated marksmen who need every bit of accuracy they can get, this is a vital piece of gear. Also, gunners with heavy weapons will find it a welcome alternative to firing from the hip or trying to shoulder a bulky weapon.
Claymore Mines: For the most part impractical, but if you know how to use it can work. As with most things, the greater the quantity, the greater the likelihood of success.
Flashlights: If you play in the dark a lot, a flashlight can be a helpful friend to penetrate the darkness and reveal the enemy. Strobe lights (the ones that flash) are good for disorienting your enemy and are even used in lit CQB situations.
Flip-Up Iron Sights: Most guns come with stationary front and rear iron sights, which usually work fine. Really the only advantages to flip-up sights is that you can place them to your preference and they can fold out of the way so you can use your reflex sight or other optic
-Fore-grips: Some people love 'em, some people don't - but the truth is they do make whipping your weapon around a bit easier. You can even get one that splits in two to double as a bipod!
Grenades: There are several types; Some actually spray bbs everywhere when they go off and some simply make a very loud pop. Smoke grenades can be helpful when you need to make yourself invisible to the enemy. When used right, any of these can be effective tools.
Grenade Launchers: Nope, they don't actually launch a grenade (bummer, right?). Pretty much it's a giant shotgun that you can mount on any gun as long as you have a rail large enough to accommodate it. Very good for clearing small rooms or bunker rushing (if you can get close enough to use it, that is).
Hydration Packs: Also called "camel packs" these are large bladders which you can fill with water and sling on your back. A hose runs from the pack and clips onto your vest so you can have ready access to a freshening gulp. Hydration packs are a great way to carry large quantities of water without the bulkiness of water bottles or canteens.
Lasers: Another low-light accessory, it functions like a reflex sight by allowing you to quickly acquire your target. You may consider one if you play a lot of night or CQB games.
-Magazines: They are like potato chips - one is just not enough! High capacity, mid capacity, low capacity - get whatever suits you. Many people like high caps because you have 200+ rounds ready to fire. Others, however, prefer mid or low caps for the realism of swapping out mags, or to avoid the tell-tale rattle of high caps.
- Multi-Tool: You never know what tool you might find yourself in dire need of. A multi-tool helps to cover all the bases.
PEQ Boxes: Great for storing an extra battery, or to use if you or your gun don't have room for a battery anywhere else.
Rails: Many guns come with rails pre-installed, but there are also many options for adding onto what you already have. Rails are a necessity if you need to mount accessories to your weapon.
-Red/Green Dot Reflex Sights: Need speedy target acquisition and your iron sights just aren't cutting it? Look no further! Reflex sights come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, and any decent one will be fully adjustable. Once dialed in, just stick the dot on your target and fire.
Slings: Be it a 1,2 or 3 point sling, this tool makes it easy to transition to a secondary weapon or just keep your main weapon on your back and out of the way. It can also be used to enhance a rifles stability when trying to make accurate shots.
-Tape: Duct or electrical tape is great for a host of things. When you want it you find you can't make do without it - so always have some on you.
-Two-Way Radios: While these are not specifically "Airsoft" accessories, the importance of communication cannot be overstated. Winning or losing can hinge on a simple piece of information delivered at the right moment.
-Whistle: A great tool to signal game starts and stops. Also comes in handy of you need help, although hopefully you'll never have to use it for that.
So, let's recap the main points.
Role - what's your playing style?
Environment - where do you play mostly?
Practicality - will you use it often?
Protective Gear - accessories that protect your body from injury or pain
Collective Gear - accessories that provide a place to store other gear
Effective Gear - accessories that enhance you or your weapons' effectiveness
Next time you are thinking of buying that new piece of gear, just take a moment to review this information and you will be well on your way to making an educated decision.
Play hard, play well. Play Airsoft!
.
How To Care for Your Airsoft Gun
1. Don't overcharge the battery - overcharging your battery will result in decreased battery life or a ruined battery (and possibly a fire). A 5-7 hour initial charge using the wall charger included with your gun will be sufficient. After the initial charge, charging the battery for 2-3 hours should be sufficient.
Tip: To figure out how long your battery should charge for, take the mAh of the battery (e.g. 1100 mAh) and divide that number by the mAh output of the wall charger (e.g. 250 mAh). This will give you an approximate charge time.
2. Don't use low quality ammo - using low quality ammo can void the gun warranty and cause the weapon to jam. If your gun has a tightbore barrel that makes using the right quality bbs all the more important. It is not recommended that you use any bbs from Walmart or other sporting goods stores. Most of the bbs such retailers sell are low quality bbs which are really only ok for spring guns (excluding Sniper Rifles). I know a lot of people use Crosman bbs, however, I would not recommend using them in an electric gun - especially one with a tightbore barrel. Even if they don't damage the gun, using them may void your warranty. Never use .12g bbs in an electric gun and never re-use bbs in an electric gun or sniper rifle, no matter what weight they are.
3. If your gun jams and/or makes a grinding/whining noise and is not shooting, immediately stop using it. If there is a jam, remove the ammo clip and shake out any loose bbs. Make sure the gun is on "safety" mode, then using the rod that came with your gun, slide it down the barrel and unjam any bbs (you should turn the hop-up all the way off before doing this). Remove the rod and fire a few shots on semi-auto. If gun is still jammed, or is making a grinding/whining noise, contact a someone who has experience with Airsoft gun dis-assembly and repair. Don't try to take the gun apart - it can be confusing and you may not remember where parts went (I've had a few of those moments myself).
4. If your gun seems to be shooting very inaccurately, you may need to clean the barrel. Doing this thoroughly will require removing the inner barrel - a process that should be performed, or at least supervised, by someone who has experience with Airsoft gun dis-assembly.
5. Once you are done shooting your gun for the day, remove the magazine (it is normal for a few bbs to fall out when doing this) and fire a few times on semi-auto. This helps make sure that there are no more bbs in the gun, and it makes sure that the internal parts of the gun are back in their correct position.
6. If your gun comes with a high cap magazine, you will have to "wind" the magazine before shooting your gun. After filling the magazine with bbs, wind the wheel located on the bottom of the magazine until you see bbs appear at the hole on the top of the magazine (ammo clip). Once you see the bbs appear wind the wheel about 10 more times, load the magazine into the gun and you are ready to shoot. The more you wind the magazine the longer you will be able to fire before having to wind it again. If you wind the magazine long enough you will start to hear a clicking noise. This means the magazine is wound as much as possible.
7. Don't hold the down trigger for more than 3-5 seconds on full-auto. Holding the trigger down for long periods will wear the weapon's internals faster, and prolonged sessions of nonstop full-auto can potentially burn out the motor and/or break other internal parts.
Airsoft Terms & Definitions
AEG - Automatic Electric Gun. A rifle or machine gun that compresses and releases its own air by using electricity to power a series of mechanical actions inside a "gearbox".
AEP - Automatic Electric Pistol. A pistol that compresses and releases its own air by using electricity to power a series of mechanical actions inside a "gearbox".
BB - The projectile which an Airsoft gun fires; a sphere usually consisting of plastic and measuring 6mm-8mm.
DMR: Designated Marksman Rifle. This refers to AEG's that have been upgraded internally for greater power, range, and accuracy.
DMR: Designated Marksman Rifle. This refers to AEG's that have been upgraded internally for greater power, range, and accuracy.
FPS - Feet Per Second. A measurement used to determine the velocity of a bb when it exits the muzzle of the gun.
GBB - Gas Blow-Back. Refers to a weapon which uses gas to propel a bb and uses a portion of the gas to drive back a slide or bolt to model the realistic function of a real weapon.
GEARBOX - The part of an airsoft gun which houses the components used to propel bbs from the weapon. Click here for an animated diagram.
High-Cap - High Capacity. Refers to the storage capacity of a magazine, usually one that holds 200-5000 bbs.
HOP-UP - The part of an airsoft gun which controls the vertical trajectory of a bb. Click here to see diagram (Scroll down until you come to the first diagram.)
Inner Barrel - the long cylindrical tube or pipe through which a bb passes before exiting the gun.
Low-Cap - Low Capacity. Refers to the storage capacity of a magazine, usually one that holds less than 100 rounds.
LPEG - Low Priced Electric Gun. These are the type of guns you'll find at Walmart, Dick's Sporting Goods and other hobby/sporting good stores. In addition to their cheap plastic externals, these guns have plastic internals which are not nearly as durable as the metal internals found in mid to high quality guns. LPEG's also have a low FPS and little to none upgrading capability.
Mag - Abbreviation for magazine, the part of an airsoft gun which houses and feeds the bbs into the weapon.
MPEG stands for Mid Priced Electric Guns. Most of these guns have metal gearboxes and are cloned off of Tokyo Marui's designs. Companies such as JG and CYMA have really come along in the MPEG category, providing durable, quality weapons at a low cost.
MPEG stands for Mid Priced Electric Guns. Most of these guns have metal gearboxes and are cloned off of Tokyo Marui's designs. Companies such as JG and CYMA have really come along in the MPEG category, providing durable, quality weapons at a low cost.
Mid-Cap - Mid Capacity. Refers to the storage capacity of a magazine, usually one that holds 110-175 bbs.
NBB- Non Blow-Black. A weapon which uses gas to propel a bb but does not drive back a bolt or slide.
ROF - Rate Of Fire. How many bbs an Airsoft gun can propel in a given period, usually in rounds per minute.
RPM - Rounds Per Minute. How many bbs are expelled from an Airsoft weapon within one minute.
RPS - Rounds Per Second. How many bbs are expelled from an Airsoft weapon in one second.
Tightbore Barrel - The inner barrel of an airsoft weapon with an inside diameter of 6.01mm-6.05mm.
Confession time. I am an airsoft junkie. Yep, it's true; I just love airsoft. I think about it, I research it, I talk about it - oh and I play it too. In fact, I can disappear into my room for hours on end just working on my own personal collection. But there comes a point when all the information and passion you have for your hobby builds up to such a point that you really need to get it out - hence the creation of this blog. Hopefully my scrawling, ranting and general hubbubalo (wait, is that a word?) will be helpful to my fellow airsoft junkies and help to rouse the inactive "chairsofters" out of their TV induced coma.
So, to start off this blog, lets confront some misconceptions about airsoft:
#1: "Airsoft is for geeks, nerds and losers who don't own real firearms."
Actually, no. There are plenty of airsoft players who do own and shoot real firearms. In fact, many military and law enforcement personnel are drawn to the game because of its realism. Airsoft is for those who want to be able to shoot each other legally and without causing major physical harm. In other words it is "safe" war.
#2: "Airsoft is DANGEROUS!"
Like any sport, yes, it has potential hazards - but nothing that common sense and caution can't remedy.
#3"Airsoft is expensive."
The truth is, airsoft is as expensive as you want to make it. If you are just starting out, be prepared to put out about $200 for a decent AEG (Auto Electric Gun), face protection and ammo. It can be done for less depending on your wants. Compared to paintball, airsoft is much cheaper just because you don't need as much protective gear and your ammo costs are much lower.
There are probably more misconceptions out there, but these are most likely the biggest three.
Okay, well I think I have run out of things to say for my first post =) I welcome comments and suggestions for future posts. Thanks for reading!
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