After playing Airsoft for over 3 years, I have made many purchases and bought from a varied selection of online retailers. Some good, some not so good.
So, here is a list of retailers I've used and my experience.
AirsoftMegastore.com: By far my favorite large online retailer. While their selection is not as large as some competitors, it is growing and their prices are almost always lower than other retailers. I have found their website one of the easiest to navigate, with plenty of options to narrow down a search if you so choose. The ONLY downside I have encountered so far is they don't carry some of the more specialized parts and gear, but for the most part they are very adequate. I only ever had an issue once when ordering a boneyard item, but they were very patient while we sorted it out and the issue was resolved.
AirsoftGI.com: Their pricing seems a bit high on some items, but they do carry a lot of parts and accessories, including those which can be hard to find elsewhere. I will warn you though; the website search bar is a pain to use, and really only works if you know the exact title of the item your looking for.
TrinityAirsoft.com: A lesser known site, this is another option I use when looking for parts. They have pretty quick shipping to my area and carry a good many replacement parts. Their selection is not that great due to the fact that many items are out of stock or discontinued, but what they have is pretty competitively priced for the most part. The site layout is a bit complicated, but not too bad once you get the hang of it.
ShortyUSA: The site is a PAIN to use and their prices aren't great (actually worse than GI for most of the guns), but the trade off is they are one of very few retailers on the east coast, so for me shipping is fast - only 2-3 days for standard shipping.
Airsplat.com: Where all the noobs go... Their customer service is laughable (so I've heard, thankfully I've never had to find out) and the site is outdated and cluttered. You may find some good deals if you shop around, but for the most part I try to stay away from them simply to play it safe. I recently ordered a JG G36K from them because they were the only ones I could find who still had the basic style in stock. After it arrived I discovered that it was really just a G36c (so short barrel) with the G36k front hand guard slapped onto it. Not a HUGE deal (not enough to go through the hassle of returning it at least), but disappointing.
Now we come to two sites that most people don't know about; Clandestineairsoft.com and BrillArmory.com. These sites specialize in parts and offer them at dirt-cheap prices. Granted the selection is limited, but you'll save so much that you won't care.
That concludes my list. There are more sites out there, but I either haven't used them, or, in my opinion, they just aren't worth it.
Hopefully you found this info helpful - be sure to check out my other articles!
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Friday, December 6, 2013
Prepping For A CQB Game
Ah, time for another post. My last article was focused on what you need to prepare for a large airsoft game. In this article, we will take a look at what you need to play a CQB match.
As always, have fun, be safe and play hard!
First off, find a place to play. If you or a friend already have an adequate space, good for you. If not, you'll have to locate a local airsoft CQB arena. If you are playing at a public arena, here are a few things to keep in mind:
1. Most, if not all, public arena's will require you to sign a release waiver (if you are a minor, your parent or guardian must sign it for you). If possible, print this off ahead of time and have it signed so you won't have to deal with paperwork once you arrive on site. Also be sure to familiarize yourself with any rules.
2. Use a gun case/bag, tote bag, etc. to carry your weapons to and from your vehicle into the arena.
3. Bring cash. There will be an entrance fee and if you need to rent gear you'll need money for that as well. Most arena's also have a store section, so it's always a good idea to bring extra cash in case you need/want something.
3. Bring cash. There will be an entrance fee and if you need to rent gear you'll need money for that as well. Most arena's also have a store section, so it's always a good idea to bring extra cash in case you need/want something.
4. Wear proper protection! At the least this usually means a full-face protection. Again, be sure to read the rules so you know what is required. Other necessary protection may include long sleeves and pants, gloves, etc.
5. FPS limits are usually 330-350 FPS depending on the field.
General Tips:
CQB is all about speed, maneuverability and close encounters. Here are some pointers:
1. Minimize exposed skin. Engagements will be close, and even with FPS limits, it's still going to sting. A lot. Long sleeved shirts and pants are highly recommended, as well as gloves, vests, helmets, etc.
2. Use a small, compact weapon. Space is limited, so the smaller the weapon the better. Weapons with a folding or collapsing stock are a great idea.
3. Have plenty of ammo readily accessible. The best option is to have multiple pre-loaded magazines stored in a vest or belt. Another option is to use a plastic bottle with a narrow mouth that will allow you to quickly pour bbs into a magazine. If you are using low or mid cap mags, speed loaders are a must.
4. Keep a backup weapon on you at all times. If your main weapon goes down or runs out of ammo and you don't have time to reload, a back-up weapon is a life saver (use a sling on your main weapon so you can quickly transition to your backup).
5. Carry extra batteries. The last thing you need is for your gun to become a useless prop.
6. Don't use any type of optics unless you have a protective lens or shield to protect it. If you ignore this warning, chances are quite high that you'll end up with a shattered lens.
7. Bring any tools you may need to repair your weapon(s). By the way, don't try to do repairs in game - you'll be a sitting duck and most likely and tripping hazard. Wait until a break or sit out a game and work on it then.
8. If you are using a gas weapon at an indoor arena, be sure to use green gas as propane is not allowed.
So there you go: A few tips for your next CQB match.
As always, have fun, be safe and play hard!
Saturday, October 12, 2013
Prepping for a Big Airsoft Game
Hopefully you'll have the privilege of attending a large game at least once in your Airsofting experience. Here are a few tips to help you get the most out of the game.
1. Test your Airsoft weapon(s) ahead of time. This is especially important if it's been sitting unused in your closet for months. Put a magazine through it and make sure it is still performing well.
2. Read the event details THOROUGHLY before the game! This includes information such as starting times, rules, etc. If there is a printable online waiver, make sure you print and sign it (and take it with you to the game of course).
3. Don't rely on others for gear! Take anything you are going to need to last you through several solid hours of game play. This will include things like:
- Eye protection. Depending on the field rules, this can range from safety glasses to masks that cover the entire face. Note that prescription glasses WILL NOT protect your eyes.
- Food & Water
- Extra batteries for your gun and any battery powered accessories (and make sure they are new/charged!)
- Two-way radios. Communication is key.
- First Aid. Airsoft is a very active sport, and it is likely you will sustain at least a small injury. Make sure you have band aids and antiseptic readily available.
- Duct tape or electrical tape. Great for almost everything - not an accessory you'll want to be without.
- Plenty of BB's.
- Something easily portable to carry it all in. This can be a vest, backpack, etc.
- A back-up weapon if possible. In the unfortunate event that your primary is taken out of action, you don't want to find yourself empty handed.
- Tools. You may find yourself in a situation where you need to perform repairs on the battle field. Make sure you have any tools you may find necessary.
- Extra clothing. As I mentioned before, Airsoft is an active sport - your cloths may get ripped, wet, muddy ect, so having an extra set or two of clothes is a very good idea.
- Boots. Boots support and protect your feet much better than sneakers.
4. Have your weapon(s) maintained. You'll want your weapon in tip-top shape, so have an experienced technician give it a once over. At the least you should make sure your barrel is clean for maximum accuracy and to prevent jams.
5. If possible, get familiar with the playing grounds before the big game. This will help you know the lay of the land and possible ambush/defense spots.
Follow this advice and you will have a lot more fun - and keep from looking like a newbie :)
Have fun, be safe, and play hard!
1. Test your Airsoft weapon(s) ahead of time. This is especially important if it's been sitting unused in your closet for months. Put a magazine through it and make sure it is still performing well.
2. Read the event details THOROUGHLY before the game! This includes information such as starting times, rules, etc. If there is a printable online waiver, make sure you print and sign it (and take it with you to the game of course).
3. Don't rely on others for gear! Take anything you are going to need to last you through several solid hours of game play. This will include things like:
- Eye protection. Depending on the field rules, this can range from safety glasses to masks that cover the entire face. Note that prescription glasses WILL NOT protect your eyes.
- Food & Water
- Extra batteries for your gun and any battery powered accessories (and make sure they are new/charged!)
- Two-way radios. Communication is key.
- First Aid. Airsoft is a very active sport, and it is likely you will sustain at least a small injury. Make sure you have band aids and antiseptic readily available.
- Duct tape or electrical tape. Great for almost everything - not an accessory you'll want to be without.
- Plenty of BB's.
- Something easily portable to carry it all in. This can be a vest, backpack, etc.
- A back-up weapon if possible. In the unfortunate event that your primary is taken out of action, you don't want to find yourself empty handed.
- Tools. You may find yourself in a situation where you need to perform repairs on the battle field. Make sure you have any tools you may find necessary.
- Extra clothing. As I mentioned before, Airsoft is an active sport - your cloths may get ripped, wet, muddy ect, so having an extra set or two of clothes is a very good idea.
- Boots. Boots support and protect your feet much better than sneakers.
4. Have your weapon(s) maintained. You'll want your weapon in tip-top shape, so have an experienced technician give it a once over. At the least you should make sure your barrel is clean for maximum accuracy and to prevent jams.
5. If possible, get familiar with the playing grounds before the big game. This will help you know the lay of the land and possible ambush/defense spots.
Follow this advice and you will have a lot more fun - and keep from looking like a newbie :)
Have fun, be safe, and play hard!
Friday, October 11, 2013
Playing Airsoft in the Rain
The dedicated Airsoft enthusiast will find themselves playing in all kinds of weather, so more than likely at some point you will find yourself playing in the rain. There are advantages to wet weather, but there are also risks, so it is a good idea to properly prepare ahead of time.
First of all, make sure YOU are properly prepared. If you have waterproof clothing that is ideal, but you can also just go with a poncho. If need be you can make your own rain poncho by taking a large trash bag and cutting holes for your head and arms. A hat or helmet is a must. Also, wet weather means mud - waterproof boots are best, but whatever you use you'll want good traction. You can help to keep your feet dry by putting plastic bags over your socks before you put on your foot gear. You can use a rubber band or elastic strap to seal off the top of the bag, but make sure it isn't too tight or it could cut off your blood circulation.
As for your weapon, if you are using a bolt action rifle or a gas powered weapon, you won't really need to do much. The main thing is to keep water out of the barrel and to make sure the gun dries thoroughly once you are done playing.
If you are using and AEG (Auto Electric Gun) however, you need to make sure the electrical connections are properly protected. It is a good idea to wrap electrical tape around the connectors and any other exposed parts such as fuses. Basically you just want to seal off any way that water could get in.
Weapons that have a solid, or "full" stock where the battery is stored should be fine as the stock automatically provides the battery and fuse with a waterproof case. Again, make sure when you are done playing you place the gun in a dry, well ventilated area where it can dry out thoroughly.
As for your weapon, if you are using a bolt action rifle or a gas powered weapon, you won't really need to do much. The main thing is to keep water out of the barrel and to make sure the gun dries thoroughly once you are done playing.
If you are using and AEG (Auto Electric Gun) however, you need to make sure the electrical connections are properly protected. It is a good idea to wrap electrical tape around the connectors and any other exposed parts such as fuses. Basically you just want to seal off any way that water could get in.
Weapons that have a solid, or "full" stock where the battery is stored should be fine as the stock automatically provides the battery and fuse with a waterproof case. Again, make sure when you are done playing you place the gun in a dry, well ventilated area where it can dry out thoroughly.
Saturday, August 24, 2013
Increasing ROF Without a LiPo
If you want to effectively boost your rate-of-fire, but don't really want to get into LiPo's, here are a few alternative options:
1. Buy a good 9.6v battery: Most start at $20-$25 for 1600 mAh. If you can buy it from an RC retailer or directly from a battery dealer, you may be able to get one cheaper.
2. Rewire to Dean connectors and eliminate as many connection points as possible. The Tamiya connectors that come stock in virtually every AEG are notoriously inefficient. The cheapest place to buy Dean's is probably Ebay, where they run for about $1 per set.
3. Replacing the stock wiring with a better quality/thicker gauge wire allows a greater flow of current from the battery to the motor. Depending on the quality of the stock wiring, this may or may not make a noticeable difference. If you do rewire, leaving the fuse out will definitely help boost ROF; however, you do have to be cautious. If your gun stops shooting for any reason, cease firing immediately or you may fry your motor and possibly your battery. If you feel the motor or battery getting hot, stop shooting and give everything a few minutes to cool down.
4. Make sure your gearbox is shimmed correctly. An incorrectly shimmed gearbox can cause added friction between the gears. This puts additional stress on the motor and reduces battery efficiency.
5. Get a high torque motor. When paired with a good battery, this upgrade drastically improves ROF. High torques are generally a better option than high speed motors because they improve trigger response and you'll probably need one anyway if you ever want to upgrade the spring in your gun.
6. If you really aren't concerned about FPS you can also just replace the stock spring with a weaker one and that will help improve ROF.
A note on "High Speed" parts:
Most "high speed" parts (ball bearing bushings, motors, gears etc.) on the Airsoft market are geared towards low FPS set-ups and therefore tend to be less durable. If you are aiming for 350 FPS and up, stick with stock or high torque parts.
1. Buy a good 9.6v battery: Most start at $20-$25 for 1600 mAh. If you can buy it from an RC retailer or directly from a battery dealer, you may be able to get one cheaper.
2. Rewire to Dean connectors and eliminate as many connection points as possible. The Tamiya connectors that come stock in virtually every AEG are notoriously inefficient. The cheapest place to buy Dean's is probably Ebay, where they run for about $1 per set.
3. Replacing the stock wiring with a better quality/thicker gauge wire allows a greater flow of current from the battery to the motor. Depending on the quality of the stock wiring, this may or may not make a noticeable difference. If you do rewire, leaving the fuse out will definitely help boost ROF; however, you do have to be cautious. If your gun stops shooting for any reason, cease firing immediately or you may fry your motor and possibly your battery. If you feel the motor or battery getting hot, stop shooting and give everything a few minutes to cool down.
4. Make sure your gearbox is shimmed correctly. An incorrectly shimmed gearbox can cause added friction between the gears. This puts additional stress on the motor and reduces battery efficiency.
5. Get a high torque motor. When paired with a good battery, this upgrade drastically improves ROF. High torques are generally a better option than high speed motors because they improve trigger response and you'll probably need one anyway if you ever want to upgrade the spring in your gun.
6. If you really aren't concerned about FPS you can also just replace the stock spring with a weaker one and that will help improve ROF.
A note on "High Speed" parts:
Most "high speed" parts (ball bearing bushings, motors, gears etc.) on the Airsoft market are geared towards low FPS set-ups and therefore tend to be less durable. If you are aiming for 350 FPS and up, stick with stock or high torque parts.
The LiPo Battery: Advantages & Precautions
The LiPo battery has quickly gained popularity in the Airsoft community due to several advantages it provides over standard 8.4v and 9.6v batteries. While there are pros, there are also cons as well. In this article we will examine both.
PROS:
1. Lightening fast trigger response. The LiPo battery has a high energy output, which allows the maximum amount of electricity to be released. This is especially nice for players with semi-only AEG's who still need to be able to compete with full auto fire.
2. Increased rate of fire. This is always nice, especially when you are playing in a woodland environment where you engage at longer distances, and when you have to punch through thick undergrowth.
3. Consistent output. Unlike NiMh batteries, the LiPo will provide the same output right up until it dies.
4. Small size. Many LiPo's provide a high Mah count while still maintaining a relatively small size. This is handy when your battery space is limited.
These are the advantages, and also what everyone focuses on. However, there are several things about the Lipo which may be sufficient reason to steer clear.
CONS:
1. Increased wear on gearbox components. Airsoft guns are machines. As machines get used they wear out; the more use, the faster the decline. Using a LiPo can as much as double the amount of wear that would be caused by a standard battery pack. This will affect pretty much every internal part of your Airsoft gun, especially the electrical components. Because the LiPo provides such a high electrical current, if one is not careful heat can build up to such an extent that wires actually melt together (yes, it has happened). Such an intense current also fries trigger contacts rather quickly. (Installing a mosfet chip to regulate the current can help to minimize these risks, but it will never completely eliminate them. In fact, in the case of the melted wires mentioned above, a mosfet chip was being used but still failed to prevent overheating. Thankfully in this instance, although the chip itself was fried, it did prevent a short which very likely would have caused the battery itself to catch on fire)
PROS:
1. Lightening fast trigger response. The LiPo battery has a high energy output, which allows the maximum amount of electricity to be released. This is especially nice for players with semi-only AEG's who still need to be able to compete with full auto fire.
2. Increased rate of fire. This is always nice, especially when you are playing in a woodland environment where you engage at longer distances, and when you have to punch through thick undergrowth.
3. Consistent output. Unlike NiMh batteries, the LiPo will provide the same output right up until it dies.
4. Small size. Many LiPo's provide a high Mah count while still maintaining a relatively small size. This is handy when your battery space is limited.
These are the advantages, and also what everyone focuses on. However, there are several things about the Lipo which may be sufficient reason to steer clear.
CONS:
1. Increased wear on gearbox components. Airsoft guns are machines. As machines get used they wear out; the more use, the faster the decline. Using a LiPo can as much as double the amount of wear that would be caused by a standard battery pack. This will affect pretty much every internal part of your Airsoft gun, especially the electrical components. Because the LiPo provides such a high electrical current, if one is not careful heat can build up to such an extent that wires actually melt together (yes, it has happened). Such an intense current also fries trigger contacts rather quickly. (Installing a mosfet chip to regulate the current can help to minimize these risks, but it will never completely eliminate them. In fact, in the case of the melted wires mentioned above, a mosfet chip was being used but still failed to prevent overheating. Thankfully in this instance, although the chip itself was fried, it did prevent a short which very likely would have caused the battery itself to catch on fire)
2. Over-draining the battery can kill it. Because of the makeup of the cells in a LiPo battery, each cell must maintain a minimum charge. If it drops below this minimum the pack can bloat and be rendered unusable.
3. LiPo's require a special charger. These special chargers designed ensure that each cell will charge at an equal rate. If it were not for this "balance" feature, the battery could catch on fire.
3. LiPo's require a special charger. These special chargers designed ensure that each cell will charge at an equal rate. If it were not for this "balance" feature, the battery could catch on fire.
CONCLUSION:
If you are still set on getting a LiPo, here is what you need to do prepare your gun for the added strain.
If you are still set on getting a LiPo, here is what you need to do prepare your gun for the added strain.
1. Install a quality Mosfet. Without this, something is definitely going to fry.
2. Make sure your gun has a strong gearbox. Version 3 gearboxes will hold up much better that even re-enforced Version 2's.
3. Rewire your gun with the largest gauge wire you can fit and switch your connectors to Deans. This will increase the efficiency of the electrical flow and help to prevent bottle necks.
4. Correct the angle of engagement where the piston meshes with the sector gear. If you don't do this you'll just keep stripping pistons.
5. Get a good motor that can handle the increased voltage without excessive heating.
6. Go easy on the trigger - keep full auto to short bursts and don't go crazy with rapid semi-firing.
If you have decided you would rather not go with a LiPo but still want to increase your rate-of-fire, check out my article, "Increasing ROF Without a LiPo".
Tuesday, July 30, 2013
Your Guide to Purchasing an Airsoft Gun
"What gun should I get?" is a question I hear all the time. With literally thousands of choices on the Airsoft market, such a decision can be quite challenging and overwhelming. My task is to make your decision a bit easier.
First, let's examine the main Types of Airsoft Weapons.
Spring: This term refers to guns that requires the user to manually compress the spring via a lever or bolt before each shot. The upside to spring guns is that you don't have to bother with batteries or gas; The downside is their low FPS (usually 330 or less) and the fact you can only shoot as fast as you can pull the lever back and squeeze the trigger. Spring guns are fine for backyard battles, but that's about it.
Gas: These guns are powered by a compressed gas such as propane, green gas or Co2. Gas guns can range from pistols to sniper rifles. One of the nice things about gas guns is they sound awesome, and you don't have to fool with a battery. However, their performance and functionality are affected by weather, and it can be a pain to carry extra gas around with you. Luckily, there are options such as the Airsoft Innovations Refillable Gas Can, which allows propane and green gas users to carry an extra gas supply around in a container small enough to fit in a standard grenade pouch. Gas guns are also higher maintenance weapons that must be cared for regularly if you want them to last. Gas guns are acceptable for most playing situations.
Automatic Electric Guns (AEG's): These guns use a battery powered motor to compress the spring and fire the weapon. AEG's can be broken down into three categories:
- LPEG
- MPEG
- High end
LPEG stands for Low Priced Electric Gun. These are the type of guns you'll find at Walmart, Dick's Sporting Goods and other hobby/sporting good stores. In addition to their cheap plastic externals, these guns have plastic internals which are not nearly as durable as the metal internals found in mid to high quality guns. LPEG's also have a low FPS and little to none upgrading capability. These guns are fine for backyard wars or if you are only playing against spring guns or other LPEGS. Try to go against anyone else and you will die. Quickly.
MPEG stands for Mid Priced Electric Guns. Most of these guns have metal gearboxes and are cloned off of Tokyo Marui's designs. Companies such as JG and CYMA have really come along in the MPEG category, providing durable, quality weapons at a low cost. MPEG's will let you compete in all playing situations.
High-end guns tend to use higher grade materials internally and externally and have more highly tuned internals for a better stock performance. Although there are some perks to high-end guns, for the most part you are just paying for a name brand and sometimes better externals. These weapons work in all playing situations.
There are several important factors which you should consider before buying a gun, and they are as follows:
Playing Style:
Are you an aggressive player who likes to move a lot and be in the midst of the action, or do you prefer to stay on the outskirts of the action? For someone who likes to be highly mobile, a small to mid-sized weapon (and possibly one with a folding or collapsing stock) will allow for greater maneuverability. A larger weapon with a longer barrel and higher FPS will provide greater range and accuracy for the player who prefers to engage from a distance.
Environment:
This category can be broken down into three main subcategories.
- Close Quarter Battle/Close Quarter Combat (CQB/CQC)
- Woodland
- Urban
CQB/CQC is almost always indoors, so space is limited and close engagements are common. If you play, or want to play CQB, you'll want to stick with a lower powered, compact weapon. Most CQB sites have a maximum FPS limit of 330-350 or less.
Woodland battles take place in forested areas, where engagement distances are usually fairly great. For this type of environment you'll want something with a good bit of FPS (350 or higher) and a good rate of fire.
Urban battles tend to be a mix of woodland and CQB scenarios. A mid sized AEG or a combination of an AEG and a pistol or other compact sidearm is ideal for this type of play.
The Bottom Line...
...is this. If you are planning on doing any serious Airsoft, wait until you have at least $150 to put towards a decent gun. If you need gear too, plan on spending $200-$250. That may mean waiting a bit longer, but trust me, it's worth it.
Got your gun but trying to decide what gear you need? Check out my article "Functionality or Overkill?".
First, let's examine the main Types of Airsoft Weapons.
Spring: This term refers to guns that requires the user to manually compress the spring via a lever or bolt before each shot. The upside to spring guns is that you don't have to bother with batteries or gas; The downside is their low FPS (usually 330 or less) and the fact you can only shoot as fast as you can pull the lever back and squeeze the trigger. Spring guns are fine for backyard battles, but that's about it.
Gas: These guns are powered by a compressed gas such as propane, green gas or Co2. Gas guns can range from pistols to sniper rifles. One of the nice things about gas guns is they sound awesome, and you don't have to fool with a battery. However, their performance and functionality are affected by weather, and it can be a pain to carry extra gas around with you. Luckily, there are options such as the Airsoft Innovations Refillable Gas Can, which allows propane and green gas users to carry an extra gas supply around in a container small enough to fit in a standard grenade pouch. Gas guns are also higher maintenance weapons that must be cared for regularly if you want them to last. Gas guns are acceptable for most playing situations.
Automatic Electric Guns (AEG's): These guns use a battery powered motor to compress the spring and fire the weapon. AEG's can be broken down into three categories:
- LPEG
- MPEG
- High end
LPEG stands for Low Priced Electric Gun. These are the type of guns you'll find at Walmart, Dick's Sporting Goods and other hobby/sporting good stores. In addition to their cheap plastic externals, these guns have plastic internals which are not nearly as durable as the metal internals found in mid to high quality guns. LPEG's also have a low FPS and little to none upgrading capability. These guns are fine for backyard wars or if you are only playing against spring guns or other LPEGS. Try to go against anyone else and you will die. Quickly.
MPEG stands for Mid Priced Electric Guns. Most of these guns have metal gearboxes and are cloned off of Tokyo Marui's designs. Companies such as JG and CYMA have really come along in the MPEG category, providing durable, quality weapons at a low cost. MPEG's will let you compete in all playing situations.
High-end guns tend to use higher grade materials internally and externally and have more highly tuned internals for a better stock performance. Although there are some perks to high-end guns, for the most part you are just paying for a name brand and sometimes better externals. These weapons work in all playing situations.
There are several important factors which you should consider before buying a gun, and they are as follows:
Playing Style:
Are you an aggressive player who likes to move a lot and be in the midst of the action, or do you prefer to stay on the outskirts of the action? For someone who likes to be highly mobile, a small to mid-sized weapon (and possibly one with a folding or collapsing stock) will allow for greater maneuverability. A larger weapon with a longer barrel and higher FPS will provide greater range and accuracy for the player who prefers to engage from a distance.
Environment:
This category can be broken down into three main subcategories.
- Close Quarter Battle/Close Quarter Combat (CQB/CQC)
- Woodland
- Urban
CQB/CQC is almost always indoors, so space is limited and close engagements are common. If you play, or want to play CQB, you'll want to stick with a lower powered, compact weapon. Most CQB sites have a maximum FPS limit of 330-350 or less.
Woodland battles take place in forested areas, where engagement distances are usually fairly great. For this type of environment you'll want something with a good bit of FPS (350 or higher) and a good rate of fire.
Urban battles tend to be a mix of woodland and CQB scenarios. A mid sized AEG or a combination of an AEG and a pistol or other compact sidearm is ideal for this type of play.
The Bottom Line...
...is this. If you are planning on doing any serious Airsoft, wait until you have at least $150 to put towards a decent gun. If you need gear too, plan on spending $200-$250. That may mean waiting a bit longer, but trust me, it's worth it.
Got your gun but trying to decide what gear you need? Check out my article "Functionality or Overkill?".
Saturday, July 27, 2013
Functionality vs. Overkill
When it comes to Airsoft, there are literally hundreds of gear and accessory options readily available. With all the choices, choosing the right gear can be overwhelming, and it is rather easy to go overboard. In this article we will explore some of the different playing styles and gear, which will hopefully give you some ideas to get you started on your personalized load-out.
Just imagine trying to run through any type of foliage with all this... Yeah, it will not end well.
When trying to choose new gear for myself, there are three main things I must consider:
1. Role: What is my playing style?
2. Environment: Where do I typically play Airsoft?
3. Practicality: Will I really use it, or do I just want it for the "cool" factor?
Below I will explain each aspect in detail.
ROLE:
Every Airsoft player has a unique playing style. Choosing the right gear will help to enhance the effectiveness of your chosen role. There are three main types of Airsoft players; Aggressive, Passive, and Somewhere-In-Between.
Aggressive players like to be at the forefront of the action and are always on the move. Because mobility and speed are important in this role, small, light weapons and minimal gear will maximize efficiency. Due to the intensity of this playing style, weapons and gear tend to be rather abused, so choosing durable gear is very important as well.
Passive players are often referred to as "campers" - they prefer to sit tight and wait for the enemy to come to them. Engagement distances can vary from extremely close (depending on the patience of the camper) to quite far, so players should be equipped for both short, intense shootouts, and longer, drawn out engagements.
Those players who are Somewhere-In-Between do not consistently display either of the above traits, and just tend to do whatever they feel like at the moment. A versatile load-out is best suited for this type of player.
ENVIRONMENT:
There are three main types of environments in which the Airsoft player will find themselves; Woodland, Close Quarter Combat/Battle (CQC/CQB) and Urban.
Woodland typically consist of a wooded area, although there can be open fields and bodies of water as well. Greenery can range from mature trees to dense undergrowth, or a mix of the two. Engagements usually happen at medium (75-100 feet) to far (150+ feet) distances.
CQB/CQB generally takes place indoors, where opponents frequently face off at 15-75 feet. Because of this, most CQB arenas have a 330-350 FPS limit on all weapons. Mobility and speed are extremely important factors in this type of environments
Urban warfare tends to be a combination of of both the latter, therefore a diversity of weapons and gear is highly recommended.
PRACTICALITY
When choosing your gear, you must be careful to choose those items which you are definitely going to use. For example, if you only or mostly play during the daylight, you don't need to invest in a laser or flashlight. Also, you don't need that 9x30 magnification scope on your AEG; you can see way further that you'll ever be able to shoot. Those things may look cool tacked to your gun, but your money could have been better spent buy purchasing extra mags, batteries, or any number of things that you often find yourself in need of.
The whole point of this article is to help you choose between what is practical and what is not - Functionality versus overkill. The military has a great grasp on this concept. They know that to much gear is going to slow them down and make them easy targets. They also know that not being equipped with the right equipment could be deadly. Thankfully in Airsoft the stakes are not so high, but it still pays to be prepared.
MAIN GEAR CATEGORIES:
Not to sound like a broken record, but again I find that this can be consolidated into three main categories: Protective, Collective and Effective (see what I did there?)
Protective gear will include gear such as:
-Gloves: Getting shot in the hand can hurt - a lot. If you play woodland this may not be such an issue for you, but for CQB players, gloves will definitely save you from large amounts of pain.
-Goggles/Safety glasses: Definitely a must. Vision is a very nice thing to have, so you probably don't want to lose yours. Personally I prefer the mesh goggles so I never have to worry about fogging.
-Helmets: Head shots can hurt, although usually just a hat is sufficient protection.
-Masks: These can be one-piece units which cover the entire face (or the whole head), or just a "lower face" mask which protects your mouth and cheeks and is used in conjunction with goggles or safety glasses.
-Pads: Knee pads are very common among Airsofters because often you will find yourself falling or sliding on your knees - which doesn't feel to good if you don't have pads and land on rocks or thorns. Some players also opt for elbow pads for added protection to the arms.
-Plate carriers: These are essentially hard vests which protect your back and chest. Usually shots in these areas are not that painful, but again, it's up to you.
Collective gear is what you use to store stuff and can range from, well, read for yourself:
-Back-Pack: Self explanatory. Bulky, but it can hold a lot of gear.
-Drop leg Magazine Pouch: If you don't like stuff packed around your chest, you can tack it on your leg instead! The only problem is that available space is limited.
-Dump Pouches: A great little device where you can stuff any item that needs a home. Most people use them as a place to dump expired magazines, hence the name. I would not advise using it as a mobile waste device...
First off, you definitely don't need your gun looking like this...
Just imagine trying to run through any type of foliage with all this... Yeah, it will not end well.
When trying to choose new gear for myself, there are three main things I must consider:
1. Role: What is my playing style?
2. Environment: Where do I typically play Airsoft?
3. Practicality: Will I really use it, or do I just want it for the "cool" factor?
Below I will explain each aspect in detail.
ROLE:
Every Airsoft player has a unique playing style. Choosing the right gear will help to enhance the effectiveness of your chosen role. There are three main types of Airsoft players; Aggressive, Passive, and Somewhere-In-Between.
Aggressive players like to be at the forefront of the action and are always on the move. Because mobility and speed are important in this role, small, light weapons and minimal gear will maximize efficiency. Due to the intensity of this playing style, weapons and gear tend to be rather abused, so choosing durable gear is very important as well.
Passive players are often referred to as "campers" - they prefer to sit tight and wait for the enemy to come to them. Engagement distances can vary from extremely close (depending on the patience of the camper) to quite far, so players should be equipped for both short, intense shootouts, and longer, drawn out engagements.
Those players who are Somewhere-In-Between do not consistently display either of the above traits, and just tend to do whatever they feel like at the moment. A versatile load-out is best suited for this type of player.
ENVIRONMENT:
There are three main types of environments in which the Airsoft player will find themselves; Woodland, Close Quarter Combat/Battle (CQC/CQB) and Urban.
Woodland typically consist of a wooded area, although there can be open fields and bodies of water as well. Greenery can range from mature trees to dense undergrowth, or a mix of the two. Engagements usually happen at medium (75-100 feet) to far (150+ feet) distances.
CQB/CQB generally takes place indoors, where opponents frequently face off at 15-75 feet. Because of this, most CQB arenas have a 330-350 FPS limit on all weapons. Mobility and speed are extremely important factors in this type of environments
Urban warfare tends to be a combination of of both the latter, therefore a diversity of weapons and gear is highly recommended.
PRACTICALITY
When choosing your gear, you must be careful to choose those items which you are definitely going to use. For example, if you only or mostly play during the daylight, you don't need to invest in a laser or flashlight. Also, you don't need that 9x30 magnification scope on your AEG; you can see way further that you'll ever be able to shoot. Those things may look cool tacked to your gun, but your money could have been better spent buy purchasing extra mags, batteries, or any number of things that you often find yourself in need of.
The whole point of this article is to help you choose between what is practical and what is not - Functionality versus overkill. The military has a great grasp on this concept. They know that to much gear is going to slow them down and make them easy targets. They also know that not being equipped with the right equipment could be deadly. Thankfully in Airsoft the stakes are not so high, but it still pays to be prepared.
MAIN GEAR CATEGORIES:
Not to sound like a broken record, but again I find that this can be consolidated into three main categories: Protective, Collective and Effective (see what I did there?)
Protective gear will include gear such as:
-Gloves: Getting shot in the hand can hurt - a lot. If you play woodland this may not be such an issue for you, but for CQB players, gloves will definitely save you from large amounts of pain.
-Goggles/Safety glasses: Definitely a must. Vision is a very nice thing to have, so you probably don't want to lose yours. Personally I prefer the mesh goggles so I never have to worry about fogging.
-Helmets: Head shots can hurt, although usually just a hat is sufficient protection.
-Masks: These can be one-piece units which cover the entire face (or the whole head), or just a "lower face" mask which protects your mouth and cheeks and is used in conjunction with goggles or safety glasses.
-Pads: Knee pads are very common among Airsofters because often you will find yourself falling or sliding on your knees - which doesn't feel to good if you don't have pads and land on rocks or thorns. Some players also opt for elbow pads for added protection to the arms.
-Plate carriers: These are essentially hard vests which protect your back and chest. Usually shots in these areas are not that painful, but again, it's up to you.
Collective gear is what you use to store stuff and can range from, well, read for yourself:
-Back-Pack: Self explanatory. Bulky, but it can hold a lot of gear.
-Drop leg Magazine Pouch: If you don't like stuff packed around your chest, you can tack it on your leg instead! The only problem is that available space is limited.
-Dump Pouches: A great little device where you can stuff any item that needs a home. Most people use them as a place to dump expired magazines, hence the name. I would not advise using it as a mobile waste device...
-Holsters: Having a back-up weapon is nice, but having an accessible place to store one makes it even better. Most holsters also have an pouch to store an extra magazine or speed loader.
-Vests: From S.W.A.T styles to MOLLE, a vest is a great place to store extra ammo, magazines, batteries etc.
Effective gear is what enables you or your weapon to be more effective. This includes items such as:
-Batteries: There is nothing worse than the sound of a dying battery in the middle of battle. Having and extra battery or two on hand will help you keep on playing longer. Getting a 9.6v battery will increase your rate of fire instantly without any of the risks of higher voltage batteries.
- BBs: It is amazing how many people underrate this vital piece of equipment. Using quality bbs makes all the difference in range and accuracy. BB weight is also very important - using 0.30g bbs in a stock gun is not going to be effective, and .12g are going to fly all over the place. .20g are good for the average player, or .23g-.25g if you want more accuracy.
Bipods: For most people, this is one of those "overkill" items, but for snipers and designated marksmen who need every bit of accuracy they can get, this is a vital piece of gear. Also, gunners with heavy weapons will find it a welcome alternative to firing from the hip or trying to shoulder a bulky weapon.
Claymore Mines: For the most part impractical, but if you know how to use it can work. As with most things, the greater the quantity, the greater the likelihood of success.
Flashlights: If you play in the dark a lot, a flashlight can be a helpful friend to penetrate the darkness and reveal the enemy. Strobe lights (the ones that flash) are good for disorienting your enemy and are even used in lit CQB situations.
Flip-Up Iron Sights: Most guns come with stationary front and rear iron sights, which usually work fine. Really the only advantages to flip-up sights is that you can place them to your preference and they can fold out of the way so you can use your reflex sight or other optic
-Fore-grips: Some people love 'em, some people don't - but the truth is they do make whipping your weapon around a bit easier. You can even get one that splits in two to double as a bipod!
Grenades: There are several types; Some actually spray bbs everywhere when they go off and some simply make a very loud pop. Smoke grenades can be helpful when you need to make yourself invisible to the enemy. When used right, any of these can be effective tools.
Grenade Launchers: Nope, they don't actually launch a grenade (bummer, right?). Pretty much it's a giant shotgun that you can mount on any gun as long as you have a rail large enough to accommodate it. Very good for clearing small rooms or bunker rushing (if you can get close enough to use it, that is).
Hydration Packs: Also called "camel packs" these are large bladders which you can fill with water and sling on your back. A hose runs from the pack and clips onto your vest so you can have ready access to a freshening gulp. Hydration packs are a great way to carry large quantities of water without the bulkiness of water bottles or canteens.
Lasers: Another low-light accessory, it functions like a reflex sight by allowing you to quickly acquire your target. You may consider one if you play a lot of night or CQB games.
-Magazines: They are like potato chips - one is just not enough! High capacity, mid capacity, low capacity - get whatever suits you. Many people like high caps because you have 200+ rounds ready to fire. Others, however, prefer mid or low caps for the realism of swapping out mags, or to avoid the tell-tale rattle of high caps.
- Multi-Tool: You never know what tool you might find yourself in dire need of. A multi-tool helps to cover all the bases.
PEQ Boxes: Great for storing an extra battery, or to use if you or your gun don't have room for a battery anywhere else.
Rails: Many guns come with rails pre-installed, but there are also many options for adding onto what you already have. Rails are a necessity if you need to mount accessories to your weapon.
-Red/Green Dot Reflex Sights: Need speedy target acquisition and your iron sights just aren't cutting it? Look no further! Reflex sights come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, and any decent one will be fully adjustable. Once dialed in, just stick the dot on your target and fire.
Slings: Be it a 1,2 or 3 point sling, this tool makes it easy to transition to a secondary weapon or just keep your main weapon on your back and out of the way. It can also be used to enhance a rifles stability when trying to make accurate shots.
-Tape: Duct or electrical tape is great for a host of things. When you want it you find you can't make do without it - so always have some on you.
-Two-Way Radios: While these are not specifically "Airsoft" accessories, the importance of communication cannot be overstated. Winning or losing can hinge on a simple piece of information delivered at the right moment.
-Whistle: A great tool to signal game starts and stops. Also comes in handy of you need help, although hopefully you'll never have to use it for that.
So, let's recap the main points.
Role - what's your playing style?
Environment - where do you play mostly?
Practicality - will you use it often?
Protective Gear - accessories that protect your body from injury or pain
Collective Gear - accessories that provide a place to store other gear
Effective Gear - accessories that enhance you or your weapons' effectiveness
Next time you are thinking of buying that new piece of gear, just take a moment to review this information and you will be well on your way to making an educated decision.
Play hard, play well. Play Airsoft!
.
-Batteries: There is nothing worse than the sound of a dying battery in the middle of battle. Having and extra battery or two on hand will help you keep on playing longer. Getting a 9.6v battery will increase your rate of fire instantly without any of the risks of higher voltage batteries.
- BBs: It is amazing how many people underrate this vital piece of equipment. Using quality bbs makes all the difference in range and accuracy. BB weight is also very important - using 0.30g bbs in a stock gun is not going to be effective, and .12g are going to fly all over the place. .20g are good for the average player, or .23g-.25g if you want more accuracy.
Bipods: For most people, this is one of those "overkill" items, but for snipers and designated marksmen who need every bit of accuracy they can get, this is a vital piece of gear. Also, gunners with heavy weapons will find it a welcome alternative to firing from the hip or trying to shoulder a bulky weapon.
Claymore Mines: For the most part impractical, but if you know how to use it can work. As with most things, the greater the quantity, the greater the likelihood of success.
Flashlights: If you play in the dark a lot, a flashlight can be a helpful friend to penetrate the darkness and reveal the enemy. Strobe lights (the ones that flash) are good for disorienting your enemy and are even used in lit CQB situations.
Flip-Up Iron Sights: Most guns come with stationary front and rear iron sights, which usually work fine. Really the only advantages to flip-up sights is that you can place them to your preference and they can fold out of the way so you can use your reflex sight or other optic
-Fore-grips: Some people love 'em, some people don't - but the truth is they do make whipping your weapon around a bit easier. You can even get one that splits in two to double as a bipod!
Grenades: There are several types; Some actually spray bbs everywhere when they go off and some simply make a very loud pop. Smoke grenades can be helpful when you need to make yourself invisible to the enemy. When used right, any of these can be effective tools.
Grenade Launchers: Nope, they don't actually launch a grenade (bummer, right?). Pretty much it's a giant shotgun that you can mount on any gun as long as you have a rail large enough to accommodate it. Very good for clearing small rooms or bunker rushing (if you can get close enough to use it, that is).
Hydration Packs: Also called "camel packs" these are large bladders which you can fill with water and sling on your back. A hose runs from the pack and clips onto your vest so you can have ready access to a freshening gulp. Hydration packs are a great way to carry large quantities of water without the bulkiness of water bottles or canteens.
Lasers: Another low-light accessory, it functions like a reflex sight by allowing you to quickly acquire your target. You may consider one if you play a lot of night or CQB games.
-Magazines: They are like potato chips - one is just not enough! High capacity, mid capacity, low capacity - get whatever suits you. Many people like high caps because you have 200+ rounds ready to fire. Others, however, prefer mid or low caps for the realism of swapping out mags, or to avoid the tell-tale rattle of high caps.
- Multi-Tool: You never know what tool you might find yourself in dire need of. A multi-tool helps to cover all the bases.
PEQ Boxes: Great for storing an extra battery, or to use if you or your gun don't have room for a battery anywhere else.
Rails: Many guns come with rails pre-installed, but there are also many options for adding onto what you already have. Rails are a necessity if you need to mount accessories to your weapon.
-Red/Green Dot Reflex Sights: Need speedy target acquisition and your iron sights just aren't cutting it? Look no further! Reflex sights come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, and any decent one will be fully adjustable. Once dialed in, just stick the dot on your target and fire.
Slings: Be it a 1,2 or 3 point sling, this tool makes it easy to transition to a secondary weapon or just keep your main weapon on your back and out of the way. It can also be used to enhance a rifles stability when trying to make accurate shots.
-Tape: Duct or electrical tape is great for a host of things. When you want it you find you can't make do without it - so always have some on you.
-Two-Way Radios: While these are not specifically "Airsoft" accessories, the importance of communication cannot be overstated. Winning or losing can hinge on a simple piece of information delivered at the right moment.
-Whistle: A great tool to signal game starts and stops. Also comes in handy of you need help, although hopefully you'll never have to use it for that.
So, let's recap the main points.
Role - what's your playing style?
Environment - where do you play mostly?
Practicality - will you use it often?
Protective Gear - accessories that protect your body from injury or pain
Collective Gear - accessories that provide a place to store other gear
Effective Gear - accessories that enhance you or your weapons' effectiveness
Next time you are thinking of buying that new piece of gear, just take a moment to review this information and you will be well on your way to making an educated decision.
Play hard, play well. Play Airsoft!
.
How To Care for Your Airsoft Gun
1. Don't overcharge the battery - overcharging your battery will result in decreased battery life or a ruined battery (and possibly a fire). A 5-7 hour initial charge using the wall charger included with your gun will be sufficient. After the initial charge, charging the battery for 2-3 hours should be sufficient.
Tip: To figure out how long your battery should charge for, take the mAh of the battery (e.g. 1100 mAh) and divide that number by the mAh output of the wall charger (e.g. 250 mAh). This will give you an approximate charge time.
2. Don't use low quality ammo - using low quality ammo can void the gun warranty and cause the weapon to jam. If your gun has a tightbore barrel that makes using the right quality bbs all the more important. It is not recommended that you use any bbs from Walmart or other sporting goods stores. Most of the bbs such retailers sell are low quality bbs which are really only ok for spring guns (excluding Sniper Rifles). I know a lot of people use Crosman bbs, however, I would not recommend using them in an electric gun - especially one with a tightbore barrel. Even if they don't damage the gun, using them may void your warranty. Never use .12g bbs in an electric gun and never re-use bbs in an electric gun or sniper rifle, no matter what weight they are.
3. If your gun jams and/or makes a grinding/whining noise and is not shooting, immediately stop using it. If there is a jam, remove the ammo clip and shake out any loose bbs. Make sure the gun is on "safety" mode, then using the rod that came with your gun, slide it down the barrel and unjam any bbs (you should turn the hop-up all the way off before doing this). Remove the rod and fire a few shots on semi-auto. If gun is still jammed, or is making a grinding/whining noise, contact a someone who has experience with Airsoft gun dis-assembly and repair. Don't try to take the gun apart - it can be confusing and you may not remember where parts went (I've had a few of those moments myself).
4. If your gun seems to be shooting very inaccurately, you may need to clean the barrel. Doing this thoroughly will require removing the inner barrel - a process that should be performed, or at least supervised, by someone who has experience with Airsoft gun dis-assembly.
5. Once you are done shooting your gun for the day, remove the magazine (it is normal for a few bbs to fall out when doing this) and fire a few times on semi-auto. This helps make sure that there are no more bbs in the gun, and it makes sure that the internal parts of the gun are back in their correct position.
6. If your gun comes with a high cap magazine, you will have to "wind" the magazine before shooting your gun. After filling the magazine with bbs, wind the wheel located on the bottom of the magazine until you see bbs appear at the hole on the top of the magazine (ammo clip). Once you see the bbs appear wind the wheel about 10 more times, load the magazine into the gun and you are ready to shoot. The more you wind the magazine the longer you will be able to fire before having to wind it again. If you wind the magazine long enough you will start to hear a clicking noise. This means the magazine is wound as much as possible.
7. Don't hold the down trigger for more than 3-5 seconds on full-auto. Holding the trigger down for long periods will wear the weapon's internals faster, and prolonged sessions of nonstop full-auto can potentially burn out the motor and/or break other internal parts.
Airsoft Terms & Definitions
AEG - Automatic Electric Gun. A rifle or machine gun that compresses and releases its own air by using electricity to power a series of mechanical actions inside a "gearbox".
AEP - Automatic Electric Pistol. A pistol that compresses and releases its own air by using electricity to power a series of mechanical actions inside a "gearbox".
BB - The projectile which an Airsoft gun fires; a sphere usually consisting of plastic and measuring 6mm-8mm.
DMR: Designated Marksman Rifle. This refers to AEG's that have been upgraded internally for greater power, range, and accuracy.
DMR: Designated Marksman Rifle. This refers to AEG's that have been upgraded internally for greater power, range, and accuracy.
FPS - Feet Per Second. A measurement used to determine the velocity of a bb when it exits the muzzle of the gun.
GBB - Gas Blow-Back. Refers to a weapon which uses gas to propel a bb and uses a portion of the gas to drive back a slide or bolt to model the realistic function of a real weapon.
GEARBOX - The part of an airsoft gun which houses the components used to propel bbs from the weapon. Click here for an animated diagram.
High-Cap - High Capacity. Refers to the storage capacity of a magazine, usually one that holds 200-5000 bbs.
HOP-UP - The part of an airsoft gun which controls the vertical trajectory of a bb. Click here to see diagram (Scroll down until you come to the first diagram.)
Inner Barrel - the long cylindrical tube or pipe through which a bb passes before exiting the gun.
Low-Cap - Low Capacity. Refers to the storage capacity of a magazine, usually one that holds less than 100 rounds.
LPEG - Low Priced Electric Gun. These are the type of guns you'll find at Walmart, Dick's Sporting Goods and other hobby/sporting good stores. In addition to their cheap plastic externals, these guns have plastic internals which are not nearly as durable as the metal internals found in mid to high quality guns. LPEG's also have a low FPS and little to none upgrading capability.
Mag - Abbreviation for magazine, the part of an airsoft gun which houses and feeds the bbs into the weapon.
MPEG stands for Mid Priced Electric Guns. Most of these guns have metal gearboxes and are cloned off of Tokyo Marui's designs. Companies such as JG and CYMA have really come along in the MPEG category, providing durable, quality weapons at a low cost.
MPEG stands for Mid Priced Electric Guns. Most of these guns have metal gearboxes and are cloned off of Tokyo Marui's designs. Companies such as JG and CYMA have really come along in the MPEG category, providing durable, quality weapons at a low cost.
Mid-Cap - Mid Capacity. Refers to the storage capacity of a magazine, usually one that holds 110-175 bbs.
NBB- Non Blow-Black. A weapon which uses gas to propel a bb but does not drive back a bolt or slide.
ROF - Rate Of Fire. How many bbs an Airsoft gun can propel in a given period, usually in rounds per minute.
RPM - Rounds Per Minute. How many bbs are expelled from an Airsoft weapon within one minute.
RPS - Rounds Per Second. How many bbs are expelled from an Airsoft weapon in one second.
Tightbore Barrel - The inner barrel of an airsoft weapon with an inside diameter of 6.01mm-6.05mm.
Confession time. I am an airsoft junkie. Yep, it's true; I just love airsoft. I think about it, I research it, I talk about it - oh and I play it too. In fact, I can disappear into my room for hours on end just working on my own personal collection. But there comes a point when all the information and passion you have for your hobby builds up to such a point that you really need to get it out - hence the creation of this blog. Hopefully my scrawling, ranting and general hubbubalo (wait, is that a word?) will be helpful to my fellow airsoft junkies and help to rouse the inactive "chairsofters" out of their TV induced coma.
So, to start off this blog, lets confront some misconceptions about airsoft:
#1: "Airsoft is for geeks, nerds and losers who don't own real firearms."
Actually, no. There are plenty of airsoft players who do own and shoot real firearms. In fact, many military and law enforcement personnel are drawn to the game because of its realism. Airsoft is for those who want to be able to shoot each other legally and without causing major physical harm. In other words it is "safe" war.
#2: "Airsoft is DANGEROUS!"
Like any sport, yes, it has potential hazards - but nothing that common sense and caution can't remedy.
#3"Airsoft is expensive."
The truth is, airsoft is as expensive as you want to make it. If you are just starting out, be prepared to put out about $200 for a decent AEG (Auto Electric Gun), face protection and ammo. It can be done for less depending on your wants. Compared to paintball, airsoft is much cheaper just because you don't need as much protective gear and your ammo costs are much lower.
There are probably more misconceptions out there, but these are most likely the biggest three.
Okay, well I think I have run out of things to say for my first post =) I welcome comments and suggestions for future posts. Thanks for reading!
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